Adventures in Cairo - Day 3

14 Feb 2007, Cairo

Today is Valentine’s Day! And what better way to spend it than to be wandering in the streets of Cairo with ur buddy and enjoying the amazing hospitality of the Egyptians?

No I’m not trying to be sarcastic.. what really struck me today was the warmth and sincerity and hospitable nature of the Egyptians…

Tabbee and I started the day hitching a ride with Yasmine’s friend to the Citadel. This is within the area of Islamic Cairo, where the many beautiful mosques and structures are attributed to the Ottoman Empire, which brought Islam as a religion into Egypt and saw one of the most prosperous period for Muslims in terms of science, riches and intellect to name a few….

Islamic Cairo is located quite some distance from the main town area, and the Citadel was on the edge of Islamic Cairo. It was a huge area, complete with fortified castle walls and towers… from the Mosque of Mohamad Ali, one can see the entire skyline of Cairo… it struck us how crowded Cairo was as a city, with houses being so close to each other and with people and traffic everywhere as well.. most of the houses within the vicinity of the Citadel were also the old form of houses (not so much apartments) and with a bit of imagination, one can imagine how things weren’t too different hundreds of years ago, where Egyptians lives in similar houses and went about their busy schedules everyday…

We walked quite a bit in the Citadel, looking at mosques and museums… along the way, we met two “very friendly” guys… one was some random guy who thought we looked lost (I think we did because we were following directions from Lonely Planet but had ended up in a place which looked quite deserted.. so anyhow, he brought us to the towers along the walls of the Citadel… it was quite dark, musty smelling and one can get an unobstructed view of the area around the Citadel… anyway, the guy was quite interested in where we were from (he kept talking to Tabbee cos I think I looked quite unfriendly, since I was reading from the guidebook most of the time), how old were we, were we single… and of course he wished us Happy Valentines… that’s guy no. 1.

After that, Tabbee and I took a break at the seats near the National Military Museum to decide where we were heading to next… the guy manning the stall beside us kept trying to strike up conversation with us about where we were from and such… in the end he asked if we could take a photo with him at his stall… too bad he didn’t give us some free souvenirs along the way… so that’s guy no. 2

After guy no. 2, we decided we wanted to go to the Khan Al Khalili bazaar, which is a touristy place where you find everything to buy… so we took a cab (Yasmine’s mom later said we should have walked but oh well) there… the cab driver didn’t really know english so we got off when he said we were there… it looked like a bazaar all right so we walked into the crowded streets… 10 mins of walking brought us past stores selling clothes, cloth, spices and some other stuff… when we got to this gate near the end of the street, we were thinking something wasn’t quite right.. because we didn’t see any tourists at all… at that point, guy no. 3 appeared… again he asked where we were from, where we were heading, and then he invited us to have Egyptian Tea in his house, which was just beside us… seeing how he looked quite harmful and his house was just in front of a busy street where if anything happened, we could be heard, we accepted his invitation… it was a great decision… turns out the guy’s family has been doing patchwork for generations after generations and he showed us some of the most beautiful pieces we’ve ever seen… now he travels the world a lot, going to embassies and such to showcase the patch works at exhibitions and from there, draw customers and clients… the guy was only 24 years old but had been to USA, Asia and many countries because of the job… he studied Islamic history but now he’s kind of in charge of the business, especially the marketing side of it… he served us Hibiscus tea, which looked like normal tea with a slight tinge of red but was really really sour… but still it was an interesting experience and amazing to see how hospitable Egyptians were...

Anyway, we also found out from him that we were in the local’s market and not the tourist market, which was across the street where we alighted from the cab… so we headed back down that same street with the hope of getting to a money changer as well (I was still carrying USD then)… just when we were about to cross the overhead bridge (you don’t know how rare it is to see one), Tabbee got stopped by this guy who looked 30 something years old asking where she is from.. so the conversation started and he asked quite some stuff about our countries, whether we needed visas, what the market was like etc… then he so kindly took us to the money changer (which was 10 mins away)… he helped me with my USD, spoke to the changer, got my money changed and counted clearly… so nice.. we thought that was it… but no.. he offered to show us around the local market to see some proper Egyptian handicrafts.. so into the narrow streets we went, with him explaining now and then about the culture here… our 1^st stop was a Papyrus Arts shop, featuring very beautiful hand drawn paintings on Papyrus… the owner was a really young guy, who showed us also how some stalls outside sell fake drawings which are actually pictures printed on banana leaves… we found some paintings we liked and bought some, after like almost 50% discount as well…

After that, we went to a woods craft shop where we saw how the carpenter decorated a dull wooden box with pieces of ivory, shell, camel bone and other types of stone into a beautifully polished jewel box. We also saw how another one built a chess board set from the same kinds of materials… while these craftsmen didn’t speak English, they were really warm and smiling to us tourists and our unusual guide..

After the crafts street, we headed past some stalls selling camel meat (HUGE!!), baking bread etc until we got to a spices shop… our guide (Ehab is his name by the way) showed us where it was stored and told us that even in ancient Egyptian times, they used such rooms and till today things have not changed much… we then went into the shop where we met a very sincere shopkeeper… he was so proud of his spices and perfumes (100% natural) and showed us bottles of spices to see and smell, he showed us his perfumes (didn’t realise that lotus smells that good) and I guess at the end of it, everyone was happy cos Tabbee bought a small bottle of Lotus perfume from him…

So that was pretty much our mini guided tour of the local’s market (I have to go find the name… for now all I know is that it’s beside Khan Al Khalili bazaar)…

Since it was nearing dinner time, we asked Ehab where we could go for some Egyptian cuisine.. he suggested downtown where the food would be much cleaner so off we went… we thought it was quite nearby but in the end I think we walked for almost 30 or 40 minutes before we got there.. along the way, it was interesting to see the very local culture.. for example, people riding bicycles with mountains of stuff balanced on their heads, pedestrians walking everywhere and on the roads, cars honking at each other, pedestrians crossing the streets wherever they can, children staring at us as we passed by… we also learnt about their working hours, their eating hours (lunch at 4pm and dinner at 10pm!), the daily calls for prayers that are broadcasted across the city 5 times a day, the divorce rate of couples in Egypt… it was really amazing to hear all that from a local… we also found out that Ehab worked at the hospital, in the department dealing with natural medicines (kind of like traditional chinese herbs and medicine but based on Egyptian history).. he was single and lived with his mother, he’s a Muslim who doesn’t pray all the time but believes in integrity, mercy and kindness…

So although it was a long walk, we enjoyed it quite a bit… when we got to downtown, he brought us to a food court in a shopping mall and we ordered kebab sandwich for dinner… it was a pity he couldn’t join us for long as he had to head back to work at the hospital (night shift) so we said goodbye, exchanged contacts and hoped that perhaps he would come by our Global Village…

That pretty much rounded up our Valentine’s Day in Cairo and I daresay it’s so amazing… I am quite sure that we will never find such hospitality in Singapore (even though we get so many tourists every year)… if you find a Singaporean who will smile back at you in the streets or initiate a conversation with you, you’re considered very lucky… in just one day here in Cairo, we met so many people who smiled at us, who asked where we were from, who welcome us to Egypt… we met some amazing strangers who invited us into their homes to share a bit of their culture and history with us, who would spend an entire afternoon bringing us around and showing us the side of Cairo a usual tourist would rarely see…

All in all, Cairo is quite an amazing place.. and Egyptians, simply an amazing bunch of people J

Places visited in the Citadel

- Mosque of Mohammed Ali

- Mosque of an-Nasir Mohammed

- Police Museum

- Gawhara Palace & Museum

- Carriage Museum

- National Military Museum

- Mosque of Suleiman Pasha

- Burg al-Haddad (Blacksmith’s Tower)

- Burg al-Ramla (Sand Tower)